surfing narrative

My narrative on (me) surfing


It was the beginning of a great day; I could tell every one was excited for what was to come. It was my sisters Megan and Marlene that were going surfing with me that day and we were all very anxious to go as soon as possible. When i first woke up, I jumped out of bed, I ran to the kitchen to eat my breakfast which I ate a lot faster than I usually do. Once all the minor things of the morning were taken care of, for example, making beds, brushing teeth, helping Mom get the baby dressed, and so on and so forth. When we all were ready to go, we headed to the shop which rented out surf boards and wet suits. The drive there seemed longer than then it did when we went to check the place out did. Finally we arrived at our destination; “The Oregon Surf and Rental Shop”. I hopped out of the car and practically skipped into the store. I was filled with awe at all the beautiful surf boards they had there, they had many colors of surf boards, some were carved out of wood, some were a tightly packed foam, and some were plastic; but all were very colorful and very long. First we were issued wet suits. As we headed towards the changing room we were all thinking the same thing—“How in the world am I supposed to fit into this?!” but with lots of help from each other and a lot of pulling and squeezing, we were in them. Then we were given gloves and booties. The water in Oregon measured less than 60 degrees where we were going to be surfing that day, so we happily accepted all the coverage we could get. Let me tell you we looked like a bunch of secret agent Nina's from the movies once we had all our gear on, and thus, lots of picture taking followed. Now that we were ready for the what felt like freezing cold water, now we just needed the reason we were going to be going in it. They ask you your weight as to make sure you have the right size board so that it stays buoyant but yet so it is not a personal boat. Marlene and I both got nine foot long boards and Megan, being the smallest us three, got an eight foot long board. Then we had the difficult task of getting them in the car, which took some time to accomplish, but was possible indeed. With us geared up and the boards in the car we asked were a good spot to surf was for, a “beginner surfer”. Once the location was known to us, we headed off . The trip was a little tight with 3 very large boards inside the car. We finally arrived after what seemed an eternity (but was really only half an hour away) to the place which had been recommended to us by the shop clerk. After getting the boards out of the car and down to the beach, you could tell we could not wait to get into the water, which with the wet suits on was not chilling at all. we carried our surf boards out into the ocean until it was reasonably deep. Not having the slightest idea about how to surf we watched the the semi pros next to us for a while, thinking we had a shot at it we waited for the next fairly big wave. surfing is an art, a dance on water, a ceremony where water and gravity work together to give you a fantastic ride. You don't fight the wave, if you do it will soon lead to nothing but crashing onto the sand after being pummeled by one of the greatest forces of nature, you have to catch the wave by going the same or a greater velocity then the wave you are trying to catch. Once the wave has embraced your surf board in a running hug, you must lean back on the board, as not to let the nose of the board dip under the water and flip you off like a rejected pancake. After that you can either ride the wave on your stomach, on your hands and knee's, or ride it in a standing position, which i can say is the greatest thrill of the three. I love surfing because at so many points is it rewarding, the first thrill for me was the feeling of the wave pushing you, and knowing that you caught the wave, the second I would say (which is best experienced standing on your board) is seeing the wave, the beach, and your mother cheering you on from shore. And the third thrill for me was knowing that i could experience these thrills again and again with my family on a beautiful planet that God has created for us.

Thank you and i hope you enjoyed reading
my story as much as i had fun making it -Melody Velius